Falling prices, higher costs hit RMG sector
The continuing downward pressure by international buyers on clothing prices is hitting profitability in the Ready Made Garment sector and undermining efforts to improve working conditions, industry leaders have warned.
Despite increases in costs of around 15 per cent in the last year intense competition in the sector has meant producers have been unable to pass the higher costs on to buyers.
In fact unit garment prices have fallen by between 1-2 percent in the past 12 months according Mustafizur Rahman, an economist at the Centre for Policy Dialogue.
In order to try and stem falling prices leading Bangladeshi garment manufacturers have launched a campaign and will press the major international buyers at a meeting later this month.
However economists said in such a fragmented industry it will be difficult for suppliers to force increases.
Fazlul Hoque president of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) said the issue would be addressed at a two-day meeting involving international buyers to be held in Dhaka June 28 and 29.
The meeting of the MFA Forum brings together public institutions, labour and civil society organizations and businesses. It was set up following the end of quotas under the Multi-Fibre Arrangement in 2005.
Executives from the major buyers including Wal-Mart, JC Penny, GAP, H&M, and Tesco are expected to attend.
“In the past year the fall has been 1-2 percent but over the past five years we have seen a fall in prices of more than 10 percent in the knitwear sector and the price fall in woven products has been even higher,” Hoque said
Nazma Akthar, a founder of the Bangladesh Independent Garment Worker’ Union Federation said international buyers are reducing prices all the time.
“Then they say how important compliance is for them. It’s a mockery, you can’t take what they say seriously.”
She questioned how conditions could improve when a pair of jeans was now being sold at a major UK chain store for $6, when a few years ago they had been retailing for more than double the amount.
Hoque said manufacturers have been following social compliances as per the recommendations of the buyers, yet the buyers were now not increasing prices. “They should also follow ethical buying practices,” he said.
He said the price index of exportable apparel items declined by more than 1 percent over the last fiscal while the cost of doing business in Bangladesh particularly in ready-made garment sector increased by 15 percent.
According to the industry, the erratic gas and power supply, higher freight charges both in local and international markets, the yarn price hike, implementation of the minimum wage for workers, higher transport costs and higher prices of capital machinery were the main reasons for the higher cost of doing business over the last year.
Hoque said recently exporters have been considering fixing a baseline price for some basic items to avoid unhealthy price competition.
CPD’s Mustafizur Rahman said that in Bangladesh it is often a ‘race to the bottom’ and buyers are able to force prices down.
“The manufactures are trying to produce a united front but it is so difficult and there are so many exporters and producers, “ he said.
“If some of the big players can unite they may have a chance,” he added.
Other economists said the only way out for the industry was to focus on improving productivity.
RMG exports account for around 75 per cnet of the country exports. Knitwear, the largest export earned $3.913 billion during July-March period of the current fiscal, marking a 17.34 percent growth over the same period of the previous fiscal.
During this time, woven garments earned $3.770 billion, a 7.54 percent growth over the same period of the previous fiscal.
Manufactures have been able to increase export earnings despite falling prices by raising the volumes of exports.
Source: The Daily Star


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